Henderson, NY to Alexandria Bay, NY (NY 3 to I-81, I-81 to NY 37 to Alexandria Bay)
The St. Lawrence River emerges out of the northeast corner of Lake Ontario through a region dubbed “The Thousand Islands” because as the river exits the lake it weaves around 1,864 islands during the first 50 miles. I score a great campground for the weekend, occupying all one of the small islands at the end of a long causeway in the middle of Henderson Bay.
The view to my east is of Henderson Bay, to the west are islands and Lake Ontario.
Spectacular sunsets decorate the evening sky.
Leaving Henderson Bay I head north to the heart of the Thousand Islands, Alexandria Bay. Originally the Thousand Island area was not considered to be of much value; little land suitable for farming, formidable winters, and a difficult journey from the population centers of the east coast and Canada. In 1822 the border between Canada and the United States was fixed in a “zig-zag” course along the St. Lawrence that avoids dividing any island between the two countries. The islands slumbered along in relative obscurity until 1872 when George Pullman (the rail car magnate) invited President Grant and General Sherman to be his guests on a vacation in the islands. Even then hordes of reporters followed Presidents on his travels and the beauty of the region was publicized as part of their stories. Demand for summer homes in the islands quickly became fashionable amongst the wealthy of New York and in 1894 George Boldt, managing partner of the Waldorf-Astoria Hotel in New York City, purchased Hart Island as the site of a summer home meant to be a gift to his wife Louise.
The point of departure for many who explore the Thousand Islands area is the small town of Alexandria Bay, NY. The various tour companies leave from docks here as they ferry tourists around the islands from the US side. Similar businesses also flourish on the Canadian side. Today Alexandria Bay is a typical tourist town. The small city center lines the street leading to the docks, crammed with various enterprises designed to pull dollars from the pockets of tourists! This is also the first time that my number one apprehension about traveling off the beaten path in the northeast becomes a factor, narrow streets. These towns were all built way before the advent of the automobile and narrow streets are sure to be more and more of an issue.
Boldt Castle
The island, originally named Hart Island after a previous owner, was re-named Heart Island as George began building a monument to his love for his wife. The island itself assumed a heart shape after he built a small boat lagoon and swan pond to round out the heart-like shape. The island is a short ride on an Uncle Sam’s boat taxi which goes back and forth all day long.
Leaving the docks, the views unfold in all directions. To the east one looks down the St. Lawrence River past a multitude of islands, home to both pleasure craft and the huge ocean-going freighters that take the bounty of the interior of North America and ship it out to the world.
To the west, small islands dotted with vacation homes decorate the sparkling water, framing a large ship threading its’ way between islands, heading upstream.
Directly in front of the shuttle boat lies Heart Island.
Work on Boldt Castle began in 1900 and continued until 1904 when tragedy overtook the Boldt family. Louise Boldt unexpectedly died in 1904 and George Boldt was so stricken with grief that he immediately stopped all construction on Boldt Castle. The home was never lived in and the unfinished structure sat empty and open to the effects of the weather and vandalism for the next 74 years until 1978 when the Thousand Islands Bridge Authority assumed ownership of the structure and began the reconstruction that is still in process today.
There are three main structures on the island, the main house in the center, the Power House on the right and the Alster Tower on the left in the picture above.
Across a branch of the river to the north is the Yacht House, built to house Mr. Boldt’s collection of boats.
A tourist brochure illustrates the layout on the island. The main castle is “1”, the Alster Tower is “3”, and the Power House is “6”. The tour boat dock is at the bottom (A-F).
The tour of the castle begins by walking up the west side and around on the front veranda to the main entrance.
Our path will run clock-wise through the main floor. Remember that all of this was in total collapse in 1974, in many places open to the elements due to a collapsed roof, and now in the process of being meticulously restored following the original plans. Some of the furnishings were donated by the Boldt family, others are from the same period.
The glorious main staircase centers the first floor, reaching through three floors to the ceiling above.
Our circular path commences to the left, the Reception Room.
The Billiard Room. Note the detail on the ceilings and the inlaid patterns on the hardwood floors.
The back porch sitting area.
The Dining Room, furnished with a carved oak dining room set (1890) donated by the Boldt family.
The Butler’s Pantry was primarily used for washing and storing the china.
The servants held to a rigid hierarchy and the maids had their own dining room.
The Kitchen
The Servants’ Dining Room not only was the place where the rest of the servants ate, but was a place for them to gather on breaks, etc.
The Ballroom
The Library
Ascending the grand staircase, we tour the second floor, home to the Boldt family bedrooms as well as multiple guest rooms.
George Boldt’s Suite
Louise Boldt’s Suite and Bathroom
Clover Boldt, the Boldt’s daughter, had not only a bedroom suite but her own sitting room.
In the basement of the house (not yet restored) were rooms for storage and an indoor swimming pool.
Walking out the door next to the swimming pool I am able to take a picture of the front of the house, which faces Alexandria Bay across the St. Lawrence. Full views of the castle are pretty hard to find as large trees surround on all sides.
I head around to the east side and take a picture looking down towards the Power House. In the foreground is the Dovecote, designed to hold an exotic bird collection. The facility is available for rentals and on this day preparations for a outdoor wedding are underway…
The Power House was designed to house both the electrical generating plant and domestic water pumps. The clock tower rising above contains the original chimes from the Wannamaker’s store in Philadelphia. The Power House is actually on a small island off the tip of Heart Island, reached by a graceful arch of stone. The view beyond the Power House looks down the river.
Walking back around to the west side of the island, the dominating feature is the Alster Tower, more commonly referred to as the “Children’s Playhouse” as it was designed to house a billiard room, small theater, outdoor swimming pool, bowling alley, etc., along with guest rooms in the tower. Restoration has just started on the Alster Tower.
West of the tower are two “adjustments’ designed to fill out the heart shape of the island. The first is the boat lagoon, formal delivery point for guests arriving on the island. Boat launches entered the small basin through the “Arch of Triumph”, crowned by a number of male deer known as “harts”.
Northwest of the boat lagoon is the other structure designed to fill out the “heart”, a protected area for boats and swimming, now used as a place where private boaters can dock while visiting the island.
Finally, the circle around the island is complete with another view across to the Yacht House from the shuttle boat dock.
Boldt Island is truly an outstanding example of a restoration from the “Gilded Age’ where the millionaires of the day spared no expense in building a “summer cottage” designed for use only a few months out of the year.
Next up: The North Country
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