The Northern Black Hills (Base camp in Black Hawk, day trip includes Sturgis, Spearfish Canyon, Deadwood and Lead ); I-90 to Spearfish; Hwy 14A south in a circle through Lead and Deadwood; coming back to I-90 at Sturgis and then east to Black Hawk)
Before diving into the Black Hills of South Dakota a brief description of the area is in order. Visualize dumping a pile of boiled potatoes on a blotchy tan linoleum tile school floor and letting it sit for a couple of months until a camouflage of multigreen mold covers the lumps – that’s the Black Hills. Rising out of an ocean of undulating beige grasslands, the pine forests that robe the geologically oldest mountains in the United States (now eroded into hills) form a dramatic contrast to the dun-colored prairie and appear black from a distance. Thus giving rise to the name “Black Hills”. Long considered sacred by the Native Americans, the lands were guaranteed to the natives “in perpetuity” by the Fort Laramie Treaty, which was ratified by Congress and signed into law by the president in 1868. However, once gold was found in 1874 miners flooded the area. After the defeat of General Custer at the Battle of the Little Big Horn in 1876, the federal government initiated the confinement of natives on reservations and included the unilateral removal of the Black Hills from Indian Territory in 1877. The rich placer deposits along Whitewood Creek in the northern Black Hills were discovered in 1875 which ead to the establishment of the town of Deadwood and the mother lode, a veritable mountain of gold and silver, was found the following year 3 miles south of at the top of the valley. The Homestake Mine was established and operated until 2002. Today tourism is the mainstay of the local economy, exploiting historical and recreational opportunities. Over the course of several days I wandered through the Black Hills, visiting most of the main towns and natural attractions. I started in the northwest, exploring gold country.
Sturgis
Located along I-90 as it cuts through the northern Black Hills. Sturgis was founded in 1879 as a supply point for nearby Fort Meade. Never a large town, little of historical significance remains in either the small downtown or the area around the fort three miles northeast of town. Instead Sturgis is absolutely dominated by the impact of the annual Sturgis Motorcycle Rally. Started in 1938 it has become one of the largest gatherings of motorcycle riders in the world with an estimated 750,000 people attending the week-long rally in 2015. The little town of 6,000 people must be overwhelmed during the rally, but in early October there’s not much going on (which is fine with me!). Driving through the small downtown area, I’m struck by two things – the large parking lots at nearly every business and the absolutely gigantic bars and saloons. Stretching for a long city block along the main drag is The Knuckle Saloon.
Kitty-corner from The Knuckle Saloon is the SideHack.
Just east of the SideHack is Easy Riders Saloon, which not only is a huge building but has an outside convert venue with raised decks surrounding a stage alongside.
Across the street from The Knuckle Saloon is the Harley-Davidson Pavilion, where the main acts perform during the rally.
As impressive as these structures are, they just don’t seem big enough to handle 750,000 people. I wandered a bit looking for the historical Fort Meade (which turns out to have turned into a VA Hospital and not much of the historical ambience is in evidence) and stumbled on part of the answer. About three miles northeast of town I came upon one of the “temporary” entertainment sites, The Full Throttle Saloon and encampment. There are apparently several of these temporary sites around town which can accommodate thousands. There were acres of small, temporary modular “cabins” in row after row, radiating out from the main saloon and entertainment area, which was decorated with fantastic metal sculptures.
One indication that this must be a “wild and wooly” time is that virtually every bar and business that I saw had large signs on the doors stating “no colors or weapons allowed”. Hmmmm, interesting! Getting back on I-90 I head further west to Spearfish before turning south on Hwy 14A to climb up into gold country via famed Spearfish Canyon.
Spearfish Canyon
Spearfish Canyon is formed by the rushing waters of Spearfish Creek as it cuts north from the flanks of Harney Peak, tallest mountain at 7,200’ in the Black Hills. It was a beautiful fall day for a peaceful ride through nature at it’s’ best.
At the top of the canyon the highway rises precipitously to the northeast as we approach the heart of the Black Hills Gold Rush, the Homestake Mine and the town of Lead (pronounced “Leed”).
Lead
Miners knew that when gold was found in gravel beds in a number of the streams around Deadwood that the source of the gold must be higher up, the fabled “mother lode”. The first claims on the mountain were filed in 1876 and in 1877 George Hearst began consolidating the various claims and formed the Homestake Mining Company in 1879. The gold ore was relatively low-grade (one ounce of gold per one ton of material) but the deposit was extremely large. By the time that the mine closed in 2002 over 38.9 million ounces of gold and 9 million ounces of silver had been mined. The center of town perches on the southern edge of the “The Cut”, as the mine is called, which dominates the town in every way. This picture was taken perhaps 100 yards from the main street of the compact downtown area.
Unfortunately, the town of Lead has not really survived the loss of the mine. While Deadwood, three miles down the other side of the mountain, is a bustling and vibrant tourist community, Lead is tired. There are few historical structures still standing along the main street as the town was destroyed by fire a number of times and then in the 1930’s subsidence (settling of the ground) due to the growing expansion of the mine destroyed many brick and masonry structures. The mountain side slopes steeply and the view down Main Street is framed by the processing mill to the east.
Two buildings of historical significance still standing include the 1912 Old City Hall (left) and the 1912 Opera House. The Opera House was built by the Homestake Mining Company for the benefit of its’ workers and not only included an opera house that could seat 1,000 but also a bowling alley, swimming pool, library and social rooms.
Leaving town, I head up and over the mountain, passing hillsides in the processed of being reclaimed from the old mine tailings.
The highway quickly descends down a narrow canyon and the town of Deadwood comes into view.
Deadwood
Deadwood is the real “Wild, Wild West”, home to Wild Bill Hickock and Calamity Jane amongst other notorious characters of the old West. Founded in Deadwood Gulch in 1876 it quickly grew to be the center of commercial activity in the Black Hills. The railroad came to town in 1890 and the “golden age” of Deadwood boomed during the early 1900’s. After a fire destroyed the wooden town in the 1880’s the commercial center was rebuilt in brick and mortar, most of which still stands today. Prostitution and gambling flourished until the late 1940’s. The last brothel (Pam’s Purple Door) didn’t close until 1980. In 1989 legal gambling returned to Deadwood as the foundation of an effort to provide funds for the restoration and maintenance of the city. The entire city had been declared a National Historic District in 1964 and the proceeds from the gambling tax continues to provide financial support for the preservation of the town. The intended impact of returning gambling to Deadwood has more than been fulfilled. The town is bustling, even on a fall week day, and there are no empty storefronts along the main street. The restored buildings house boutique hotels, restaurants, saloons, and lots of shops designed to part tourists from their dollars. Let’s walk up and down historic Main Street.
Deadwood Gulch is narrow with canyon walls rising sharply on both sides. Whitewood Creek runs directly through the center of town, but you can’t see it as the creek is buried under Main Street. The south end of town is anchored by the Lawrence County Courthouse (left) and the Post Office (right).
One of the guidelines of a historic district is that buildings must be built or restored as close to their original appearance as possible or, if new construction, mimic the architecture of the era. One of the more impressive examples that I have seen in terms of new construction blending into an historic area is the Holiday Inn Deadwood Mountain Grand Resort and Casino. The complex climbs the side of the canyon, resembling the appearance of a gold mine and mill.
Main Street Deadwood stretches north.
An example of how a historic building has been adapted to a modern use is one of the little tourist shops housed in an old bank. Even the vault has been pressed into use!
Nestled amongst the historic structures from the turn of the century are two anomalies, 1930’s service stations. They, too, are in the historic district and have been restored to approximate their appearance when built.
All in all, Deadwood is a fascinating mix of history, architecture and casinos in a beautiful mountain setting just 30 minutes off the interstate.
The northern Black Hills are by themselves a worthy tourist destination, but the “headliner” attractions of the Black Hills, the monuments, lie to the southeast.
Next Up: Pride and Prejudice in the Black Hills
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