Houghton, MI to Sault Ste. Marie, MI (Hwy 26 to Copper Harbor, MI; Hwy 41 to Marquette, MI; Hwy 26 to Sault Ste. Marie, MI)
The Upper Peninsula of Michigan (referred to as the ”U.P.”) sits in awesome isolation from the rest of the state, resting in the shape of a giant lobster claw between Lake Superior on the north and Lake Michigan to the south. Even though the UP is about 30% of the land mass of the state of Michigan, it only contains about 3% of the total population. Pronouncing each letter separately (“U” – “P”) gives rise to the label that locals refer to themselves, “Yoopers”. “Yoopers” are fiercely proud of their land and independence. The largest city in the UP is Marquette, referred to by locals as the “capital of the UP” and the rest of Michigan is referred to as the “Down Below”. The jumbled hills of the western end taper to the much flatter point on the east, all of it clothed in dense forest. The small “spur of the lobster claw” that juts north into Lake Superior is the Keweenaw Peninsula, a rugged wilderness that is separated from the main UP by the Keweenaw Waterway, a combination of natural lakes and manmade canals that crosses the Keweenaw at its base. This is mountainous territory by “east of the Mississippi” standards. The weather is horrible so I settle for a view through the windshield as I head towards Houghton.
The twin cities of Houghton (south side, population 8,000) and Hancock (north side, population 4,700) atrddle the Keweenaw Waterway and are the current center of population of the Keweenaw. The hills rise sharply from Portage Lake and both towns rise on streets terraced up the hills. On the left is a view of Hancock from downtown Houghton and on the right is a view of Houghton, taken from Hancock on the northern bank.
The economy is based upon logging and tourism but that has not always been so. The Keweenaw is a geologic site unique on earth, large scale deposits of 97% pure copper once ran throughout the peninsula. Evidence shows that copper has been mined in the area for at least the last 7,000 years (that is NOT a misprint!). Modern day mining began in the 1850’s and continued for over 100 years before ending in 1967. Trying to fill the need for trained technological support, Michigan Tech University was founded in Houghton in 1885. Across the river in Hancock Suomi College was founded in 1896 as the immigrants from Finland flocked to the area to work the mines wanted a means of preserving their way of life. Suomi College was named Finlandia University in 2000. While Hancock and Houghton are the current commercial center of the Keweenaw, was not always so. The queen city of the Keweenaw during the glory years of the copper boom was located about 10 miles north, Calumet.
Calumet, MI
Calumet, originally named “Red Jacket”, was founded in 1867 in the center of the copper mines. Its population peaked around 1900 with nearly 26,000 people calling the town home. The “Copper Country Strike of 1913-1914” marked a turning point in the health of the mines and a long decline in the economy began. Currently a little over 700 people live amidst that tattered wonders of an age gone buy. Most commute to nearby Houghton/Hancock for work. In any other area that was more accessible to tourists Calumet would be an incredible attraction but due to the remote location it molders as an after-thought from an earlier time. The large city center is still largely intact with most of the buildings constructed in the period between 1895-1905. Join me in the cold rain as I explore Calumet.
Surrounding the city center are blocks of residential housing in various states from restored to gently decaying.
Leaving Calumet I head north towards Copper Harbor at the tip of the peninsula. Lake Superior has been out of sight for over a hundred miles so I turn west on Hwy 26 to Eagle Harbor on the coast to check out the lake. The lighthouse at Eagle Harbor rises above a stormy lake.
Hwy 26 hugs the coast, giving the opportunity for views to the west out on the lake.
From 800 feet above the lake I look down on Copper Harbor, the end of Hwy 41.
Standing in Copper Harbor, a small unincorporated hamlet founded in 1844 as a copper port, I look west at the road sign showing that Hwy 41 goes all the way to Miami, Florida, and then turn to my right and look out over the harbor.
I now complete the loop and head back down Hwy 41 to Houghton. The road is lonely as it weaves beneath the multicolored canopy of the dense forest.
I spend my final night in the Hancock City Campground and wake up beautiful morning view from the Lunch Box.
Leaving the Keweenaw Hwy 41 skirts Lake Superior and I am in a race with the weather. It has been cold and stormy but the long range forecasts is for good weather on the weekend, which is providential for me because if I hurry I can be at the tip of the UP by Friday. This is desirable because one of the highlights of the entire trip, Mackinac Island, is ahead and I don’t want it to be raining during my visit. Thus forewarned, I dart east and bypass the large city of Marquette, continuing along the south shore of Lake Superior when I come upon one of those quirky opportunities that I can’t pass up!
Lakenland
14 miles east of Marquette Tom Lakenen started creating yard art out of scrap metal and his project quickly grew. Today more than 80 sculptures are scattered in the forest in a truly unique illustration of one man’s imagination. Fun!
Turning off Hwy 41 to head east on Hwy 28 the rolling hills of the south shore extend into the distance.
My next stop is the small town of Munising, again an area dependent upon the duo of timber and tourism as the basis for the local economy.
Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore is just outside of Munising at the end of a narrow six mile road. Here multicolored cliffs rise above the lake, crowned by dense forest, offering spectacular views of the lake and surrounding forests.
A hike down through the forest leads to a lookout above the lake.
Tour boats leave Munising and cruise below the cliffs.
I’m staying at the Munising Tourist Park just west of town. There are a surprising lack of RV parks and campgrounds along Lake Superior and so I have found that small towns often have a city campground to accommodate campers. This one is particularly good because it is right on the lake with a sandy shoreline.
I continue east out of Munising and as I get closer to Sault Ste. Marie at the northern tip the land levels a bit, though continuing to be densely forested. Highway 28 joins I-75 about five miles south of the Canadian border and we take a brief ride on the interstate before exiting just before the bridge over the border and descend into the small town of Sault Ste. Marie.
Sault Ste. Marie
Lake Superior lies about 21 feet higher than Lake Huron and the two are connected by the 61 mile long St. Mary’s River, the only connection between Lake Superior and the rest of the Great Lakes. The drop in elevation occurs at the St. Mary’s Rapids, a barrier on the river to transportation that lead to the need to build locks to help ships move between the lakes. Sault (pronounced “Soo”) Ste. Marie is actually the name of two towns, one on each side of the river. The first lock was built on the Canadian side of the river in the late 1700’s but was destroyed during the War of 1812. A private American company built locks on the US side of the river in 1853 and then turned them over to the state of Michigan in 1885 until 1881 when the US Corps of Engineers assumed operation of the locks. Today there are four locks sitting side by side (only three actually operate, the Sabin Lock is not operational). This picture from the Visitor’s Guide shows the layout of the locks area.
The Sabin Lock was built in 1919, the Davis Lock in 1914, the Poe Lock in 1968 and the MacArthur Lock in 1943. The Poe Lock is 100’ wide, the other three are 80” wide. It’s a tight fit (only about 2.5 of space on each side of the large ships in the Poe Lock). A new lock is in the planning process that would replace the Sabin and Davis Locks with one wider lock. Entering the park grounds, the 1899 Weather Station sits at the entrance to the Soo Locks Visitor Center. Here weather reports were forwarded to captains who were attempting to maneuver through the locks and the St Mary’s River down to Lake Huron.
Ship-to-shore radio made the need for a weather station obsolete and today it is a museum.
A 3-story viewing stand sits immediately next to the locks and gives the opportunity for great pictures. On left is the view up river to the west where the CSL Welland is waiting to enter the locks. To the right is the view to the east. The lock immediately in front of me is the MacArthur Lock, which is not being used today.
The locks work without the use of water pumps, using the natural force of gravity and the 21’ difference in height between Lake Superior and Lake Huron to function. Openings in the floor of the locks allow water to enter from Lake Superior and once the level of water is the same the gates open on the left and the ship enters. Here is the Welland in the lock (note the position of the letters on the side of the ship.)
Once in the locks, the openings from Lake Superior are closed and the drains on the floor of the lock into Lake Huron open. The water in the lock slowly drains out and the ship lowers to the level of Lake Huron. In this picture, taken about 15 minutes later, note the position of the letters on the side of the ship as the ship settles.
While the Welland is in the lock downstream the ship that just exited the locks is headed downstream with Sault Ste. Marie, Canada, in the background.
The town of Sault Ste. Marie, US, is a small, working town with few buildings of historical significance. Dominating the skyline is the Chippewa County Courthouse as well as several churches.
A fascinating look at a significant cog in the transportation system of shipping in the US. Every ship that leaves Duluth must pass through these locks before heading east and eventually to the Atlantic Ocean. Also, note that my dash east has paid off – I had sun!!!
Next up: The highlight of the entire trip!
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