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“Sun, Sin and Saguaro” Chapter 7, Part 2 – Siss-Boom-Bah, Gooo Criminals!

The Center of the World
One of the more intriguing experiences of the trip occurred about ten miles west of Yuma just across the California state line in the small town of Felicity, California. In fact, the town is so small that there isn’t one – it’s an incorporated museum site of about five square miles in the desert right off I-8. Jacques-Andre Istel, a French banker who moved to the United States and was an early pioneer in the world of sky diving and parachuting, is the founder and builder of this monument in progress. In 1985 he wrote a book “Coe, the Good Dragon at the Center of the World” and in 1986 founded the city of Felicity (named after his wife), declared it the “official center of the world” and built a pyramid on that spot. This photo shows the entrance to the complex, starting with a sun dial in the foreground that is modeled after the “Arm of God” in Michelangelo’s famous painting on the Sistine Chapel pointing at the pyramid and the Church on the Hill in the background.

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Again, this is in the middle of the desert at an exit from I-8 with virtually nothing around it for miles. The complex consists of two buildings that flank the path to the pyramid (museum/restaurant on the right, post office and gift shop on the left), the pyramid at the “center of the world”, a series sixteen 100 feet long triangular lines of pink marble leading to the base of an artificial hill on top of which is the Church on the Hill.  This is an view from the air (I copied a picture from a display – Lord knows I wasn’t flying up there!!!)

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IMG_5780The pyramid is about sixteen feet tall and inside is the closely held “Center of the World” that, I have to confess, I wasn’t curious enough about to pay the additional entrance fee to see!

Beyond the pyramid the first half of the monument consists of eight individual triangular prisms of pink granite, each with its own theme.

The level of detail in the illustrations etched into the stone is amazing. Here are some examples:

Individuals can purchase space on the “Wall for the Ages” to memorialize people. Someone from the Princeton Class of 1949 paid to have the names of the entire graduating class etched on the prism.

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The theme for each prism is selected by Istel (who lives on the site and continues to direct the development of the museum.) Several reflect his French background.

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The prism illustrating the history of the United States contains an eclectic mix of topics.

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The second part of the prism arrangement is entitled the “History of Humanity” and consists of eight of the granite prisms arranged in a circle around a center stone that has a quote from John Donne etched in eight different languages. The prisms that radiate out also are planned to each reflect a different language from around the world. This example is the English prism, the others are in the process of being completed.

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The end plate of the prism sets the stage for the next question…

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The center of the circle is anchored by a modern “Rosetta Stone” designed to help future inhabitants of the earth decipher multiple languages by printing the same quote in eight different languages.

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Turning north, it’s time to climb all those stairs to the Church on the Hill.

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The church is a simple structure, consecrated by several religions and available for private services.

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At the top of the stairs I turn and look south across the museum complex.

Note on the right in the picture above is a new structure being built. It is going to be a maze of contemplation and individuals can purchase granite tiles that will be affixed to the cement. Mr. Istel was actually on site supervising workers but did not wish to be photographed.

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All and all, a worth stop to help explore the power of one man’s vision… Heading back to Yuma our next stop is the infamous Yuma Territorial Prison.

Yuma Territorial Prison
The Yuma Territorial Prison opened in 1876 on the hill just above Yuma Crossing. The view northwest from the guard tower shows the prison visitor center in the foreground, the 1915 “Ocean to Ocean Bridge” across the Colorado that replaced the ferry, and on the hill beyond water towers and the mission on the Quechan Indian Reservation. Fort Yuma was also on the far hill. Note how small and placid the Colorado River is now…

The prison was abandoned in 1909 and deteriorated over the years. The current structures are partial reconstructions. You enter through an arch with one of the prison buildings housing a museum in the background (which is the actual entrance to the prison.)

The main prison was covered when built but now the roof is long-gone and the cell block is open to the sky.

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IMG_5867As I re-enter the museum building I am appreciative of the padded cushion on the metal door. Even though it is only about 76 degrees the desert sun beats down and the door handle otherwise would be too hot to touch!

The displays inside are interesting but two stand out. The first demonstrates that justice in Yuma was not sexist by any means!

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IMG_5852The second explains the origin of the name of the mascot of Yuma High School, the Criminals. The local high school burned down the year after the prison closed and for the next four years was housed in the prison complex. Classes were held in the cell blocks and assemblies in the prison mess hall. The way the story goes is that one night the Yuma High football team was in the process of defeating a heavily favored team from Phoenix when the Phoenix fans started taunting the Yuma fans, calling them “criminals.” Ever since then the school has proudly been known as the “Criminals”, more affectionately known locally as the “Crims.”  The school proudly displays its’ mascot and the wrestling team warm-ups reflect the theme! Siss-Boom-Bah!!!

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As I leave the prison I get one last closer look at the tamed Colorado River from atop the reconstructed guard tower, flowing under the “Ocean to Ocean” bridge to my left and winding through the agricultural valley to my right.

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Next up: Saguaro Country

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