The Road to the Silver Valley
Since Portland is here and Billings is there, reality dictates that there are really only three paths from here to there. The northern route takes I-84 up the Columbia Gorge to Umatilla, cuts northeast on US 395 to Spokane, and then follows I-90 across the mountains to Missoula and down to Billings. The middle route is the same except for the middle portion. It heads somewhat straight across the mountains, leaving the Columbia River at Umatilla and following Lewis and Clark’s path up and over Lolo Pass into Missoula, picking up I-90 there and heading to Billings. The longest route cuts south, following I-84 along the Columbia River, down to Boise, Idaho, across the Snake River Plain meeting I-15 at Idaho Falls, north to Montana and meeting I-90 at Butte before turning east to Billings. I have done each of these numerous times over the years, mostly the northern route as it is quickest. I was delayed in Fairview longer than planned and then realized that I was up against Memorial Day weekend, a time when campgrounds tend to be jammed. So I head out on a quick dash on the northern route to get over the mountains to Missoula before Memorial Day and then reserve some time to explore central Montana. Thus the voyage begins.
I am somewhat embarrassed to admit that in all of my 42 years going back and forth through the Columbia River Gorge I have never stopped at the iconic Oregon experience, Multnomah Falls. Multnomah Falls is one of 77 waterfalls in the Columbia Gorge between Portland and The Dalles and is by far the best known. It is the fourth highest waterfall in the United States at 620 feet and is right next to I-84. It was a beautiful afternoon so it was a gorgeous drive up the river and I decided to stop and get a picture of the falls. The gorge is so narrow at this point that the parking lot for Multnomah Falls is actually in the middle of the freeway and you walk under the east-bound lanes to get to the falls. Unfortunately for me, this is also prime field trip time for public schools (you can see a few in the corner of the picture). I bravely weathered the hordes of elementary children and foreign tourists and got my picture!
After leaving Multnomah Falls the road follows east up the river and onto the plains of eastern Oregon. Since I was so late in leaving Fairview I decided to stop for the night in Boardman, Oregon, just before turning northeast towards Spokane. One of the things that I have learned in my wanderings in the Lunch Box is that often small towns have county or city parks with campgrounds that are much less expensive than RV parks and still have water, electricity and showers. The Boardman Marina and RV Park is a great example of this: a beautiful spot on the banks of the Columbia with lots of space and trees. Unfortunately for me, my timing was perfect and coincided with the blooming of the cottonwood trees. Yes, that’s not snow in the picture, it’s cottonwood seeds blowing around. A search for the allergy pills commenced rather quickly…
The road north heads northeast across Eastern Washington with nary a tree nor mountain in sight. Dry land wheat fields carpet the rolling landscape, occasionally broken by a wash or to with scrub trees and bushes. Just shy of Spokane pine trees start to pop up and quickly you descend into the Spokane River Valley and turn to the east. It’s about 30 miles of urban freeway between Spokane and Coeur D’Alene, Idaho, with heavily forested mountains rising in the distance on all sides. Coeur D’Alene sits on the northern shore of the lake by the same name and is one of my favorite places to visit. This picture is from a past trip – it’s taken at Blackwell Island RV Park in Coeur D’Alene, looking south at where the Spokane River exits Lake Coeur D’Alene heading northwest into Washington. Not this trip as I continue east up and over 4th of July Pass into the Coeur D’Alene River Valley. The Coeur D’Alene River rises in the Northern Rockies and runs due west, emptying into Coeur D’Alene Lake. The valley is a natural highway into the heart of the Rockies, gradually narrowing until the road climbs up (and I do mean UP!) and over Lookout Pass at the eastern end into Montana.
Catholic missionaries lead by Father DeSmet entered the valley in 1842 and established the Cataldo Mission perched high on a hill overlooking the river valley. The mission church was designed and built by Father Anthony Ravalli from 1850-1853 and the parish house next to it was built in 1887. The mission flourished as an agricultural center, though the primary function of serving the Coeur D’Alene Indians ended as pressure from the encroaching white settlement due to the discovery of gold and silver in the upper valleys of the river lead to a relocation of the fathers to the current town of DeSmet, Idaho. The church maintained a presence at the Cataldo Mission, utilizing the buildings as a training school for priests and farming activities supporting the Jesuits in Spokane until the great flood of 1917 destroyed the agricultural bounty of the valley floor. Naturally swampy in nature, the valley floor had been drained with low dikes to create farm lands. The flood washed down great quantities of poisonous minerals from the extensive mine tailings in the upper valley and rendered much of the land unusable. Caretakers actually lived in the parish house until 1973. The view of the valley was taken from the front steps of the church and looks down across the valley floor and up to the mountains to the north (note again the ubiquitous elementary school bus – it’s late May and “field trip” fever is everywhere!)
A close-up of the altar area shows the detail of the restoration began in 1986. The chandeliers are made out of hammered tin cans.
First is the view standing in the front door looking south to the altar. The church is made entirely of local wood with faux painted marble accents. The rough cut floor boards are wide and weathered with use. Second is the northeast corner of the church which contains the original confessional and a late 1880’s organ.
The parish house sits due east of the church and has been restored with antiques to reflect the activity in the 1880’s. The first floor consists of four rooms and a central hallway. The second floor has two large rooms for sleeping. The front parlor was the business and social center of the mission, a large kitchen served as cooking and eating area, and a chapel served the religious need of the home’s residents
The road continues east up the gradually narrowing valley until the valley floor assumes a somewhat unnatural looking landscape with I-90 hugging the base of the mountains on the north and a small area of low rolling grassy hills on the south, with tree covered mountains in the background. I wish I had before and after pictures of this area as the change since my first trip is incredible. But that’s another story…
Next up: The Silver Valley
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